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Restaurants, First Person

'There's More to Salvadoran Food Than Pupusas'

Anthony Salguero, chef-owner of Popoca in Oakland, is spreading the gospel of Salvadoran cuisine.

10/1/2020 4:27:00 PM

Anthony Salguero, chef-owner of Popoca in Oakland, is spreading the gospel of Salvadoran cuisine.

Anthony Salguero, chef-owner of Popoca in Oakland, is spreading the gospel of Salvadoran cuisine.

was to show people that Salvadoran food is unique, that there’s more to it than pupusas. I had always cooked progressive American food, but I never felt like the food was mine. I began spending more time in El Salvador visiting family there, and every time I would try a new dish I was amazed. Finally, I was like, “I’m Salvadoran, this is what I should be doing.” Once I started studying and staging and exploring more, I knew this was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. The recipes and techniques in this story are versions of the ones that drew me into this world of cooking, modified first for my restaurant and then again for the home cook. They’re the ones that made me want to dig deeper, and I think that they can do that for you too.

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Here are the recipes, techniques, and ingredients that drew Salguero in:All products featured on Bon Appétit are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Photo by Andria Lo, prop styling by Julian Knox1/11Chimol Makes It Better“If you’re eating at Mercado Central in El Salvador, you’ll likely get your steak with a side of chimol. It’s basically a radish pico de gallo. The combination of radish and chile delivers two kinds of heat: The radish gives that peppery, nose-clearing spice while the chile gets your tongue tingling. Crunchy, spicy, and acidic, it’s exactly what you want with steak.”

Photo by Andria Lo, prop styling by Julian Knox2/11Super-Fry Your Beans Read more: Bon Appétit »

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And you should spread the gospel of fair-payment for BIPOC-Employees. You you don‘t, BA...

Cashew Chilate RecipeA cozy, perfectly nutty, slightly sweet Salvadoran beverage. Or you just back-pay your BIPOC-Employees, BA?

Pollo en Chicha RecipeSalvadoran chicken braised in fizzy and tangy pineapple chicha from Anthony Salguero of Popoca in Oakland. When comedian George Burns, who died at the age of 102, was given doctor’s orders to eat scrambled eggs without salt, he said it tasted like the chicken wasn’t getting paid. Are you paying this chicken fairly? Please pay your BIPOC-Employees fair, BA. Til then we will comment your posts to remember other people that you don’t do it so far. careful. That chicken isn’t white, still have to pay it. Wait what were we talking abou-

Super-Refried Beans RecipeThese “like a thousand times fried” beans are a crucial part of a Salvadoran breakfast. These “pay your BIPOCs an equal wage” are a crucial part of a thriving economy. Wow I’ve never seen refried bean quenelles before As a Salvadorano I’m so happy to see our food culture featured ❤️

Hanger Steak With Chimol RecipeCrisp, peppery radishes take center stage in this fresh limey Salvadoran salsa. pay your workers

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18 Delicious Salvadoran Recipes You Can Make At HomeI'm craving alllll of this. _stephtbh giorgiocarraway 👀👀👀👀