The Women Erased From the Story of No-Knead Bread

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Jim Lahey is credited with making no-knead bread trendy. But as with many dishes, the recipe’s lineage is more complicated.

stolen and coopted as a function of white supremacy — and there’s a long recorded history of bread-making that shows no-knead techniques are far from new. Lahey’s loaf has been lauded for its revolutionary simplicity in bringing bread-baking to the masses, but it’s only one of many. One of the earliest no-knead recipes was published 80 years ago in a cookbook by British food writer Doris Grant, who became known for her wartime “Grant Loaf.

These recipes may be just different enough that no-knead bread is less a technique than a broader concept, but only one of them, in the end, became the default. Lahey told Eater over email that all of this is “nothing new.” “My recipe is very simple, uses minimal yeast, and has a long slow ferment,” he wrote. “I believe that, in essence, my bread making technique is similar to a method practiced for thousands of years, with the exception being the use of commercial yeast.” To Lahey, however, “most 90-minute bread recipes make mediocre bread.” Grant and Dunaway’s loaves — for the sake of ease and accessibility — can be produced in that amount of time.

Maybe it is the case that there’s nothing new under the sun, that all ideas are just mirrors of others before them. Lahey’s “revolutionary” Dutch oven technique is a repeat of a baking method used since Roman times; the wet dough approach was known among professional and home bakers for decades. “It seems that [Dunaway] was upset when Bittman and my article came out ,” Lahey said, adding that he hadn’t heard of Dunaway or her book before that.

 

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Did Suzanne’s recipe use a preheated cast iron pot to get that great crust?

lol

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