The Rugelach Roadmap: 4 Variations to Make Bubbe Kvell

When I was growing up, rugelach were ever-present in my grandmother's kitchen, under a cake dome on the counter, right where we walked into the kitchen. There, she would stash homemade batches of the flaky nut- and jam-filled cookies, for"the kids." My grandmother's rugelach were legendary—she carried them to bake sales, ladies' lunches, andAs an adult, when I spied these treats in delis and bakeries, I barely recognized them.

Rugelach come in two styles: spirals sliced from a roll and individually formed crescents. Though they may be slightly more labor-intensive to make, I stand firmly on the side of the crescent cookie, but I won't judge if you opt to slice your cookies from a roll, and my recipes will work well either way.

Accept the fact that making rugelach is a little messy, and you'll be just fine. There's always a smear of jam, a scattering of nuts, and a floury, sticky countertop afterward. Sure, jam oozes out during the forming and baking stages, but that's part of this cookie's charm.If you're making crescent cookies, roll out disks and use the tip of a sharp paring knife to trace around a dinner plate for a smooth outer edge.

The double baking sheet is my little secret. For years, I very slightly burned the bottoms of my rugelach, just the way my grandmother always did—honestly, I thought that was the way they were supposed to be. Then a very smart food stylist asked if I meant for them to be burned. Hmm. It was then that I adopted the double-baking-sheet method, which tempers the heat on the bottoms of the cookies. This way, what emerges from the oven are toasty-brown, caramelized-but-not-incinerated rugelach.

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