The original cookie leavener you've never heard of

Once the chief ingredient in smelling salts, ammonium carbonate has a stench that, if you own a cat, you are very familiar with. Thankfully, though, ammonium carbonate decomposes when heated into two chemicals: carbon dioxide, which leavens the dough, and ammonia, which dissipates, leaving no aroma behind in the finished product. It works best in cookies and thin crackers where there’s plenty of surface area for the ammonia to dissipate and where an exceedingly crisp texture is desired.

Baker’s ammonia is still available, though, to get that authentic texture in some old-school European baked goods, especially the aforementioned Swedish dream cookies, from which my take their inspiration. The cookies are called dreams because they dissolve quickly in your mouth, thanks to their lighter-than-air texture and honeycomb-like crumb courtesy of the baker’s ammonia.

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