The Odeon, which first opened on October 14, 1980. Photo: Rebecca Smeyne “They’re talking about their new Labradoodle puppies at the next table,” someone said as we sat, reminiscing, over a ritualistic order of steak tartare and frites at the Odeon. “I don’t recall us talking about Labradoodles back in the ’80s.
“A friend of Keith’s wanted him to move to Paris, so we went there,” said Lynn Wagenknecht, when I called the other day to reminisce about the restaurant, which she opened with her then-husband Keith McNally, and has run herself for the last 30 years. “We wandered through the stalls of the old market, Les Halles.
She’d met McNally at a hoity downtown place called One Fifth, where the future kingpin restaurateur had started as an oyster shucker and worked his way up to the front of the house. Having arrived in town a few years earlier from Illinois, Wagenknecht still had dreams of being an artist when they found the space together, an old working cafeteria on a lonely corner of Tribeca.
It was McNally, and his older brother Brian, who got most of the credit, of course. After they split up, it was McNally who continued to dominate the headlines, spreading the gospel of casual-steak-frites sophistication far and wide with brassy, big-name destination restaurants like Balthazar, Pastis, and Minetta Tavern.
plattypants “We wandered through the stalls of the old market, Les Halles.” Bit difficult that, given they’d been demolished years before...Nice story though.
plattypants I love this place.
plattypants Loved that place.
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