The Legendary Story of Thangam Philip: Food Scientist, Nutritionist, Chef & Mentor

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The legendary story of Thangam Philip, grande dame of the Indian catering world.

. My uncle studied catering under her stern supervision. My mother once took a class at the Dadar Catering College, where Philip reigned as principal—in fact, we still have a stack of her recipes, typed on sheaves of yellowed, raspy pages, all carefully filed away in a blue plastic folder. As for me: I own newer, glossier, books on baking, but it is, with its infallible madeleine and sponge recipes, that I unfailingly turn to.

One of these was the Miss a Meal Movement, asking Indians to sacrifice one meal a week—a baffling request for a country hanging by a thread after centuries of colonialism. Another was the adoption of subsidiary agricultural produce, such as ragi , bajra pearl millet, barley, yams, and the like, to reduce the country's dependence on thirsty crops such as rice and wheat. Both directives were roundly derided. Thewrote excoriatingly about"being made to swallow barley" as a staple.

The politics of Indian agriculture was soon to careen wildly again. The 1960s brought the Green Revolution, a tectonic shift in Indian agriculture. Shutting its mind to long-term effects, the government provided agriculture a technological fillip by incentivizing the use of pesticides, fertilizers, motorized pumps, and high-yield seeds.

 

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