The great Hawaiian pizza culture war

he fateful experiment happened in 1962. Sam Panopoulos, a restaurant owner, was not afraid of taking chances. He had left Greece at the age of 20 to start a new life in Canada and went on to run a successful restaurant in downtown Chatham, Ontario. He was also known for his mischievous sense of humour. His fateful culinary creation combined both elements of his personality. While he was making a pizza, he cracked open a can of sliced pineapple – and did the unthinkable.

The post-war period was a time of culinary curiosity and experimentation in North America. Italian cuisine took off in the suburbs, and at the same time Tiki culture, with its cocktails, hula girls and pineapples, blossomed as servicemen returned from the South Pacific. Pineapple upside-down cake became a favourite dessert. Canned pineapple was a major export for Hawaii, which until the 1960s produced three-quarters of global supply.

Despite being one of the most popular pizzas in the world, the Hawaiian became shorthand for inauthenticity, fast food and poor taste. But it took the addition of one final ingredient to amplify and globalise the controversy over Hawaiian pizza: the internet.ver the past decade online culture has warped real-world disputes, references and ephemera into new, often unrecognisable forms. Social-media platforms have become spaces to discuss cat photos or fall down rabbit holes of extremist politics.

Would you celebrate the “authentic” recipe or succumb to a fast-food, fruit-topped bastardisation of it? Perhaps that explains why pollsters, wrong-footed by the shock results of the Brexit referendum and the American presidential election of 2016, resorted to surveying people about pizza. YouGov determined that 53% of Britons approved of the pineapple topping in 2017 . Pizza has become something you can profess to care about very strongly, without really caring at all.

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