The Future of Ramen Is in L.A.'s Koreatown

"I believe this is the time to put some new essence in the ramen industry,” echoed chef Hiro Masato ofSo Iki and Saikai are battling the tyranny of tonkotsu specialists and celebrating the glories of being ramen generalists. In doing this, the two restaurants are showing their city what the future of ramen can and should be. And it's in Koreatown.

Han and Kim are Korean-Angelenos, and their beef ramen is a multicultural revelation. It’s a riff on gyukotsu, a beef-bone ramen from Japan’s Tottori prefecture. Koreatown residents have noticed that the bone-marrow broth also has a lot in common with seolleongtang, a Korean beef-bone soup. And the short-rib meat atop the ramen is seasoned like bulgogi. A toasted chile de arbol, which you can break apart for a pleasant jolt of heat and smokiness, is another surprising element.

Iki also deftly expands on the idea of what a ramen restaurant can be. “I’m Japanese, but this restaurant was definitely born in L.A.,” Masato said.“I came from the sushi industry, and sushi is more strict,” Masato said. “But ramen-wise, in Japan, it’s like freestyle there. They do whatever they want. Personally, I need to be loose in some way to do something.”Iki was co-founded by Masato and three Indonesian partners: Jeffry Undiarto , Sabastian Karyadi , and Andy Juliady .

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