The Boys in Their Summer Dresses

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“Queer people have been playing with this for a long time. But now you see a lot of guys in dresses that don’t identify as all that feminine.”

Khoa Sinclair in SoHo, wearing a vintage Issey Miyake snagged at Beacon's Closet for $60, on June 5, 2021.

“For the longest time, people were so stuck on being one way or the other,” Sinclair said, referring to waning gendered dress codes. If the streets are the ultimate proving ground of societal shifts, they do not always lend themselves to easy statistical measurement. For that there is the internet. Searches for fashion pieces that include agender keywords increased by 33% since the beginning of the year on Lyst, a global fashion platform that aggregates data from 17,000 brands and retailers. Page views for feather boas spiked 1,500% after Harry Styles wore one to the 2021 Grammys.

In a video posted to promote the June issue of GQ, hip-hop artist ASAP Rocky similarly takes aim at stereotypes, talking about the pink furs, pink Loewe suits and pink diamonds he often flaunts on red carpets and in the front rows of fashion shows. “To be able to have that comfort wearing something that’s considered to be feminine,” he said, “that shows masculinity to me.”

And for Eugene Rabkin, 44, a fashion journalist who last year posted a tale to StyleZeitgeist, his popular online magazine, titled “How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love Women’s Clothes,” this process was rooted in comfort and aesthetics, not gender discovery.

 

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They probably aren’t on their way to Home Depot.

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