The best sports story you'll encounter this weekend is not at the Olympics

— well, there is a cult, briefly — and may leave you feeling better than worse about the human animal, this could be your wave.

Assembled by director Chris Smith from years’ worth of material from a great variety of sources and unified by a watery Philip Glass score, it is a poetic and philosophical adventure story that is about a lot of things besides surfing, which are also things that surfing is about: humans in nature; recklessness and responsibility; fear and fearlessness; science and spirituality; friendship and competition; dependence and independence; fun and obsession; planning and what can’t be planned for;...

, upon the world’s wildest surf, in an element where people are not made to be — are literally made not to be., a surfer from Devon in Britain, who figures prominently in the tale. “It’s raw.” Though McNamara had made a name for himself as a big wave tow-in surfer — a system whereby the surfer is pulled by a jet ski out to where the surf is insanely big, and pulled out as well — and though parts of this story have been told in the mainstream press, including an episode of “60 Minutes,” he does not seem the likeliest surfer to get a six-hour documentary built around him. But perhaps that’s just why he’s worth the time.

It wasn’t until his then-girlfriend Nicole Macias discovered a years-old email chain with Dino Casimiro — a Nazaré resident who had found McNamara online and wrote, “Can you come see if my wave is big and good?” — that he finally went to Nazaré; yet it was his sense of mission that convinced a skeptical surfing world to take it seriously. They told him that “it was a fat, mushy mushburger, that it wasn’t really a wave,” McNamara recalls. “That hurt a lot.

OMG this is amazing

wow

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