Down East LA side streets and in Santa Maria backyards, along dusty byways in Bakersfield, amid quiet Bay Area suburbs, and huddled beneath transmission towers in the San Fernando Valley, California’s barbacoa vendors preserve a centuries-old weekend ritual of pit-roasting meat.
Barbacoa is a religion in Mexico, particularly in the states of Hidalgo and Estado de México, where practitioners dedicate themselves to the hyper-specific techniques of their small towns and villages. Singular recipes are passed down from generation to generation, eventually crossing the border along with their passionate cooks to the bustling cities, calm neighborhood sidewalks, and agricultural expanse of California.
Over the past 15 years, I’ve sought out versions of Mexico’s regional barbacoa practices throughout the Golden State, and observed signs of a scattered but traceable barbacoa trail. Its route follows the well-worn path of Mexican immigrants looking for work in farms and cities, winding northward from Los Angeles through the state’s agricultural valleys and back to its urban centers, all the while showcasing the niche barbacoa methods of the populations who have settled here.
For this series, I linger on four key points along the barbacoa trail, each of which spotlights a different stylistic approach toward pit-roasted meat, starting with the hustling streetside barbacoa specialists in Los Angeles; moving on to the Indigenous farmworker communities of Santa Maria and the Central Coast; then further north to a lesser-seen but equally compelling chicken preparation in the Bay Area; and finally to the deep underground pits of one of the trail’s most dedicated artists,...
This is a slow-cooked journey along the winding, wonderful trail of California barbacoa. Double-check the directions, and be ready to stuff your tortillas with the mesmerizing flavors of meat, smoke, and heritage.
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