Surprise! There Are Cheez-Its In These Apple Bars

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Don't knock it 'til you try it.

Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Yekaterina Boytsova

First I tried making them with cheddar, incorporating a big hunk of the sharp stuff into the shortbread dough. The problem was that after baking, you couldn't really taste the cheese. And the moisture it contributed to the dough made the crust and the crumb topping soft and yielding rather than crisp, sturdy, and sandy. The cheddar also shortened the shelf-life of the bars—not ideal for a dessert you'd bake with your apple haul on Sunday and whittle away throughout the week.

So I moved on to our next candidate. But when I went to the store to pick up the Ritz, I couldn't help but notice the, I thought. Made with real cheese , Cheez-Its combine the best qualities of cheddar—sharp, toasty, savory—with the best traits of Ritz—buttery, salty, crisp, irresistible. I took the Cheez-Its back to the test kitchen, where I hid them fromteam, who I feared would plow through the whole box.

I set out making the apple bars with Ritz, with Cheez-Its, and, again, with grated cheddar, and I asked anyone who walked by to tell me which they preferred. I wrapped up the bars and fed them to a couple friends, not disclosing the differences between the batches. They favored the Cheez-It-spiked bars but couldn't put a finger on the secret ingredient .

But I shouldn't have been so surprised: Cheez-Its have been formulated by scientists who are smarter than me to be widely beloved . I realized I was just channeling my inner

 

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