Olympics, Tokyo, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Speed, Bouldering, Lead

Olympics, Tokyo

Sport Climbing at the Olympics: Men's Finals Results and Women's Finals Preview

Sport climbing at the Olympics: how to win, whom to watch and when to see it

8/5/2021 10:45:00 PM

Sport climbing at the Olympics : how to win, whom to watch and when to see it

Spaniard Alberto Gines Lopez wins gold, American Nathaniel Coleman claims silver and Adam Ondra finishes 6th. Janja Garnbret will vie for women's gold Friday morning.

Updated Aug 5, 2021Tap storyGold – Alberto Gines Lopez, SpainStarting strong with a first place finish in speed, Gines Lopez was able to overcome his seventh place finish in bouldering with a fourth place lead climb to claim the inaugural men's sport climbing gold.

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Tsuyoshi Ueda/Associated PressSilver – Nathaniel Coleman, U.S.Coleman was the only climber to complete two of the three problems, earning him the top spot in boulder. A fifth place finish in lead and sixth place finish in speed earned him the silver medal.

Dimitris Tosidis/EPA-EFE/ShutterstockBronze – Jakob Schubert, AustriaAfter fifth place boulder and seventh place speed finishes, Schubert needed to climb well in lead to finish on the podium. He was the only climber to reach the top, earning him the bronze medal after the final climb of the competition. headtopics.com

Maja Hitij/Getty ImagesSixth Place – Adam Ondra, Czech RepublicEven with a surprising top four finish in speed, Ondra was not able to overcome a sixth place boulder finish. With Schubert earning the top lead ranking after topping out, Ondra was bumped off the podium.

Maja Hitij/Getty ImagesWho to Watch in the Women's FinalsKey woman athletes to watch as they enter the finals on FridayMaja Hitij/Getty ImagesJanja Garnbret, SloveniaGarnbret placed first in bouldering, completing each of the four problems on her first attempt. With a strong fourth-place showing in lead, Garnbret remains the favorite going into the finals.

Maja Hitij/Getty ImagesMiho Nonaka, JapanNonaka had a strong qualification, ranking fourth in speed, eighth in bouldering and third in lead. She enters the women's finals ranked third.Dimitris Tosidis/EPA-EFE/ShutterstockBrooke Raboutou, U.S.Raboutou was the only American woman to qualify for the finals. She finished second in bouldering and eighth in lead, and is ranked fifth overall.

Mohd Rasfan/Getty ImagesSeo's first-place lead and fifth-place bouldering finishes left her ranked second entering the women's finals.Stoyan Nenov/ReutersWhen to WatchThe women's finals will stream live online at 4:30 a.m. EDT Friday. Replays will also air on USA, at 4:45 p.m Thursday for the men and 5 p.m. Friday for the women. headtopics.com

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Mohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty ImagesOne Event, Three DisciplinesSport climbing is making its Olympic debut in Tokyo. The athletes will compete in three disciplines: speed, bouldering and lead. One set of medals will be awarded to men and women, respectively.Pictured: Jan Hojer, Germany

Thilo Schmuelgen/ReutersIn each event, the climbers will be ranked by their performance and receive a point value for their placement. The scores from the three disciplines will be multiplied together, with the lowest total point value winning--similar to golf.

Pictured: Colin Duffy, United StatesClodagh Kilcoyne/ReutersSpeed ClimbingIn speed, the climbers race to the top of a 15-meter, or roughly 50-foot, wall. The climbing holds have standardized placement, so the same route is followed across competitions. The men's world record is 5.208 seconds and the women's is 6.96 seconds.

Jasmin Walter/GEPA/Zuma PressBoulderingIn bouldering, climbers attempt to scale several short and technical routes, referred to as problems. The 4.5-meter, or about 15-foot, climbs present physical and mental challenges.Pictured: Janja Garnbret, Slovenia headtopics.com

Fabrice Coffrini/AFP/Getty ImagesThe climbers are ranked based on how many times they reach the "top" hold of each problem in the fewest attempts. They also receive partial credit for reaching the "zone" hold on any problems they can't complete.

Pictured: Adam Ondra, Czech RepublicJeff Roberson/Associated PressLead ClimbingIn lead, climbers have one attempt to scale a route on a 15-meter wall. They have 6 minutes to try to climb as high as they can. Lead requires technical skill as well as endurance for the lengthier climb, which becomes increasingly more difficult.

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Pictured: Jakob Schubert, AustriaPatrick Steiner/GEPA/ZUMA PressEach hold is numbered from bottom to top, 1 at the start, and the climbers are ranked on how far they progress, and at which hold they fall, in the least amount of time. In qualification, the top-ranked climbers reached the 40th and 42nd holds.

Pictured: Miho Nonaka, JapanMohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty ImagesSpeed’s Controversial InclusionMany climbers aren’t happy about the inclusion of speed in the combined event. Speed climbing relies heavily on pure athleticism, while boulder and lead have problem-solving aspects.

Dimitris Tosidis/EPA-EFE/ShutterstockThe Paris 2024 Olympics will include two separate climbing events. Speed will receive its own medal and lead and bouldering will have a combined medal. Read more: The Wall Street Journal »

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Sport climbing debuts at the Olympics and it's impressive as hellSport climbing is new to the Olympics , and it's pretty intense to watch. good luck I feel like i've seen this before 🤔

Sport climbing debuts at the Olympics and it's impressive as hellSport climbing is new to the Olympics , and it's pretty intense to watch. good luck I feel like i've seen this before 🤔

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