Snackwell’s Literally Ruined My Childhood

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Fat-free products like Snackwell’s offered something that looked like a treat while removing much of the pleasure the treat supposedly provided

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When I was a kid, I spent my afternoons in my mom’s bedroom, watching cartoons I thought I was too old for and eating my afternoon snack. In fifth grade, snack meant twisting apart Oreos to eat the center frosting, and then dipping each half in milk until it teetered on the verge of crumbling.

Specifically, I ate Snackwell’s devil’s food cookie cakes, a fat-free chocolate cake covered in marshmallow and chocolate,of the ’90s obsession with low-fat foods and the processed food industry’s eagerness to meet that mania with different combinations of the same ingredients — which in Snackwell’s case included lots of high-fructose corn syrup.

If there is a Snackwell’s effect, maybe it’s the false comfort offered by food that looks like pleasure but tastes like denial. Fat-free products like Snackwell’s offered a bonkers compromise: something that looked like a treat with the offending nutrient removed, which also removed much of the pleasure the treat supposedly provided. As an anxious fat kid in a tiny Catholic school where girls did things like measure and compare the circumference of their thighs, I made this compromise eagerly.

The common wisdom about the ’90s low-fat mania is that America’s decadent puritanism found a way to ruin cookies and still avoid eating apples. This truism has a name: the Snackwell’s effect, which was characterized as the tendency to eat more of a food labeled low-fat or healthy than you would have otherwise. But that line of thinking assumes there is such a thing as good or bad food, or that there’s an appropriate amount to eat of something considered bad.

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