Seasons of Preserves: Apple Butter

Before there was Big Pumpkin Spice®, there was apple butter. It’sfood of fall — the original floral and lightly spiced sweet flavor that brings to mind visions of cozy sweaters, crisp autumn air and the beginning of the holiday season. Basically just puréed apples cooked with sugar into a preserve, it’s smooth and luscious and contains everything there is to love about this time of year in a spoon.

Inarguably, the restaurant Sqirl repopularized Gravenstein apples for many people in L.A., thanks to their use in Sqirl’s signature apple butter. In “The Sqirl Jam Book,” author Jessica Koslow writes that Gravensteins are the best because “they don’t have the fibrous toothiness of other apples so when making apple butter, they become almost silky, without being overcooked or caramelized you really taste the flavor of the fruit.

“The four prime elements of high flavor are sweetness, acidity, aromatics and tannins,” said Karp. “If you make apple butter from apples that are mostly sweet like Fuji, you’ll have to add acidity or the end result will be insipid. The most important thing to me is the intensity of flavor of the [Gravensteins], which carries over into the butter made from them.”

Hi! I do want to add either cinnamon or nutmeg to my apple butter. How much do I add for one batch? Thank you. I'm excited to make this recipe!

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