Visitors at Schiaparelli’s Place Vendôme salons today will be greeted by a lavish wedding gown. Typically, couture shows end with the bride, but Daniel Roseberry gave pride of place to the dress constructed from 70 meters of white cartridge pleated taffeta. “We’ve had so many requests from clients who come looking for this irreverent grandeur that we’ve been doing,” he said.
Roseberry’s Schiaparelli debut was two Julys ago, in the halcyon summer before the pandemic wreaked its damage on fashion, and much else besides. That the American newcomer has been able to achieve so much in these straitened times—dressing Lady Gaga at Joe Biden’s Inauguration and Beyoncé at the Grammys, for starters—is a tribute to the boldness of his vision.
He came at prettiness in several different ways. Following on from that entrance-making bride is a salon devoted to embroidered jackets. These borrow as much from Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier as they do from Schiaparelli, with their curvaceous shapes, Versailles colors, and cone bra references. One black jacket blooms with pink silk roses, an ode to a collaboration between Schiap and Jean Cocteau circa 1937.
Roseberry’s explorations into body bijoux are showcased in a second room. Where this season’s jackets have a delicious propriety, a sculpted gold flower corset worn with a skirt barely clinging to the hips, and a scoop-front dress with a breastplate made of gold-dipped bronchi—the lungs being a locus of our attention in the pandemic—are more provocative. A silver bustier is accessorized by a fringed stole made from shredded black garbage bags, of all things.
The final room is alight with color: a cocktail dress punctuated by a shocking pink rose, a strapless black gown featuring a bust-line shaped like fiery orange lips with a matching train , and a voluminous infanta gown in a shade of lavender Roseberry said that he’s never used before. In his two years at Schiaparelli, he’s only doubled-down on the surreal glamour this historic house is known for. Turns out, he’s very good at pretty, too.
LilNasX you in the black and white dress oh my gawh
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