The late British poet and critic Arthur Symons believed in the power of Venice to turn realists into ultimate romantics.
In the show notes, Vaccarello described the collection as “a fantasy on a Victorian dark romance.” References to Saint Laurent’s glorious past stood out in the lineup, in which retro components were counterbalanced by the almost futuristic vibe of the installation created for the occasion by artist Doug Aitken.
The designer, for example, cited as starting points Yves Saint Laurent’s early ‘80s black and white evening suits, pleated trousers from a 1983 collection, but also archival Spencer jackets and boleros, as well as late ‘70s and early ‘80s pajama sets, trousers and robes that “inspired the creation of fluid, light and easy wearing silhouettes for the show,” he said.
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