This Paul Smith womenswear proposition was a traveling-without-moving whistle-stop tour of wearable subcultural styles that spanned decades but was built for the immediate future. As Smith and his team did for its brother menswear collection presented back in January, here they had toured his vast and seemingly chaotic trove of designs and memorabilia: He seemed chuffed at the impact this had on the youngsters.
Sometimes it takes fresh eyes to see clothes anew. The severe Mod suiting, bags cut loose to flap with Northern Soul backdrop, kick or shuffle, plus distorted photo prints and non-traditionally colored traditionally patterned fabrics, could all claim cameo roles in Paul Smith’s past. Yet even if you knew diddly about that provenance, their promotion to now seemed merited. Half-and-half cardigans against school stripe skirts played grunge against prep.
Smith reckons that come fall/winter time, we’ll be both itching and at liberty to slip on fresh glad rags and mingle. In this collection he presented multiple pieces whose acquaintance it would be fantastic to make, first time around or not.
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