Pandemic threatens Latin America's once vibrant culinary scene

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Fans of his uniquely Mexican take on high-end dining once packed a months-long wait list for Enrique Olvera's Pujol but the restaurant is grappling with a tough new reality as the novel coronavirus haunts Latin America's culinary upstarts.

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MEXICO CITY/BUENOS AIRES - Fans of his uniquely Mexican take on high-end dining once packed a months-long wait list for Enrique Olvera’s Pujol but the restaurant is grappling with a tough new reality as the novel coronavirus haunts Latin America’s culinary upstarts.

“We don’t have the size or the means to save the country. Or even the neighborhood,” Olvera said. “But we can take care of everybody who works with us, with our farmers and our employees. If everybody who can do that commits to doing that, then we have a better chance of not collapsing as a society.”

But it has not been easy, especially since much of the region is still wrestling with surging cases that make full re-opening of dining rooms a distant dream. And it has seemed like a particularly cruel blow given that the region’s high-end dining scene was just coming of age. In economic crisis-stricken Argentina, Mariano Ramon, who helms Buenos Aires fusion hot spot Gran Dabbang, partnered with fellow chef Leo Lanussol of neighborhood favorite Proper to offer a combined delivery menu.

“I think that in Argentina we have an advantage, which is that we have little memory and we are very used to crises,” Ramon said.

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