One time for L.A.'s grand cathedrals of fine dining

The popularity of these establishments has come roaring back in the last few years, with younger patrons seeing the appeal of aesthetics that represent the opulent days before austerity politics, climate-change awareness, drunk-driving laws and other things that require us to behave ourselves. Now, mind you, I am not advocating for grown adults driving through the streets of L.A. rip-roaring drunk or carving down old trees to build a bar.

Capri has cultivated an energy and a theatricality that can be addicting. Still, unlike its forebears, it’s unfussy and the reservation prohibition keeps it from being unfriendly. It’s like stepping into a particularly lively living room rather than what the great old restaurants could do, which is make you feel like you were stepping onto the set of a movie.

What I wear to these restaurants — Musso’s, Dan Tana’s, Los Feliz icon the Dresden, Dear John’s in Culver City and numerous others — actually isn’t important. Certainly, you can’t show up to Musso’s in, say, a tank top, but other than that, the excellent wait staff isn’t going to critique your outfit. It’s nearly impossible to look better than the waiters and bartenders anyway.

Rarely can a drink be considered a fashion accessory, but the classic martini glass is just that when held in the right situation. I can’t imagine going to a place like the Smoke House in Burbank and not ordering the martini with dinner. First of all, the food is sometimes not the reason to go to a place.

They evacuated to escape Li’l Caesar the racketeer.

image Everyone RT this before Twitter explodes

I miss Delmonicos.

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