. Mardin itself isn’t immune to such sentiment: The city is largely impoverished, and some of its locals have greeted refugees, who number in the tens of thousands here, with resentment. Demir’s work has taken on increased urgency as a result, with her numerous ventures increasingly focused on creating harmonious, sustainable relationships within the region’s diverse population. “There is so much prejudice,” Demir said. “Many Turkish people don’t want Syrians here.
The city’s heady cuisine is defined by spices, bulgur, meat , a liberal use of oil, and time — “a long time,” as Demir says. It is also dictated in part by the seasons: After the summer, when temperatures can climb upward of 100 degrees F, preparations are made for the long and bitter winter, which often blankets the city in snow. Tomatoes and eggplants are crushed and dried on rooftops under the sun. Meat is braised in its own fat to produce kavurma, a fried meat-and-onion dish.
As the restaurant’s popularity grew, Demir became interested in creating other social endeavors that could help local women gain skills and confidence. She enlisted them to teach classes in, and their students sold the multicolored necklaces, bracelets, key rings, and wall hangings that they produced to tourists, who began visiting the city in growing numbers in the mid-2000s.
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