On a Tiny Tuscan Island, Inmates Work to Rehabilitate by Making Delicious Wine

, legendary Italian family producer with more than 30 generations of winemaking—spanning some 700 years—in the history books. Lamberto Frescobaldi might oversee high-profile properties like Tenuta Castiglioni and Tenuta Perano, but in August 2012, an email from Carlo Mazzerbo, the then-director of the correctional institution, touched a nerve: “We are the prison of Gorgona,” it said. “We have just over a hectare of vines, and we need someone to help us make the wine.

The first two legs of the experiment have been 100 percent successful, according to Frescobaldi. When the former inmates leave the family’s employment, though, for privacy reasons he can’t track them. But they can report back to him, and the anecdotes are promising. “This is the first payroll of my life!” exclaimed one employee, who said the first thing he did on the outside was buy a pair of shoes. Simple, life-changing.To that original tiny hillside plot, another 2.

After his first visit to Gorgona, that August in 2012, and his precipitous, hand-shake deal to mobilize his winemaking apparatus to harvest the vineyard and launch the inmates into winemaking, it occurred to Frescobaldi to ask the director, “Why did you pick me?” As it turns out, he didn’t. “I made 200 calls!” said Mazzerbo. “You were the only one who answered.” The right answer, it seems, has meaningful consequences.

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