of 1972, my mother gave me the world. After receiving her inheritance from my Bostonian grandmother, she announced that we’d spend July and August in Europe. Leaving my father and sister, the baby of the family, behind in Westport, Conn., she would take me, then 14, and my two younger brothers to the Continent for the first month. Then we’d meet Dad and my sister in Paris and spend three weeks together touring France and the United Kingdom.
We started in Rome. “It’s important for you to see the great cities of Europe and know the ways of the world,” my mother mused aloud during dinner on our first night in the Piazza Navona. In the weeks that followed, her uncharacteristic extravagance astonished us. In Venice, we stayed at a luxurious hotel with rooms overlooking the Grand Canal. In Vienna, we had soufflé Rothschilds decorated with gold leaf for dessert in the opulent red dining room of the Hotel Sacher.
She had designed a classic, art-rich itinerary of the great museums, monuments and churches of Europe but with a guiding theme, the Roman Empire, which was intended to pique our interest in the past by making it real. So we marched around the Colosseum and Pompeii in Italy, the ruins of Carnuntum in Austria, the Lindenhof Park in Zurich, and more in France and England. Noticing I was more enthusiastic about carbonara than Caravaggio, my mother occasionally attempted to reorder my priorities.
Beyond the daily dose of art, my mother repeatedly taught us that generosity and amiability were vital traits of any good traveler. On an early morning train from Cologne to Paris, we shared a compartment with an old woman from Bratislava who took repeated swigs from the round bottle she kept in her handbag. Seeing my mother rub her eyes, she offered her a sip, which my mother gently declined.
In Paris, I finally got to test a theory I’d formed as a 9-year-old while obsessively reading a book about the lives of a French brother and sister. The author’s lush descriptions of their meals, including cheese souffles and chocolate mousse, led me to conclude that France was a country where everything was delicious.
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