Michelle Zauner on Her New Memoir, and the Joy of Korean Cooking

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Musician Michelle Zauner has written a memoir, “Crying in H Mart,” about mourning her mother—and connecting to her Korean heritage—through food.

I’m also a glutton for watching mukbang [on YouTube]. Mukbang is this Korean phenomenon where people film themselves eating on camera and it's kind of blended into the ASMR world. It’s an eating show and you can pay to watch these people eat on camera. I think a lot of [its popularity] is because Korean people don't like eating alone—[it’s the] comfort of getting to eat with someone online. There are some celebrity mukbang people, likewho is amazing.

When you're looking back at your ancestral history or the cultural context of your identity, it’s natural to search for that in the food. I read some reference books about Korean history and there was one that was very informative for me called. One thing that was pretty eye-opening to me was that red pepper came from the New World in the 15th or 16th century. So these things that we think of as inherently Korean actually have an even longer history than that.

I don't think this made it into the book but one story that really struck me was when my mom lived in Germany. She was so miserable because she couldn't find any Korean food or groceries, so she used to soak jalapeno peppers in hot water to replicate the taste of kimchi stew. It really made me relate to her as I’ve gotten older because I'm on tour a lot. I also remembered when I was younger in Korean school, there was this woman who made hotteok from Pillsbury Crescent Roll dough.

 

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