Marques’Almeida’s Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have long been preoccupied with youth. This season, as the duo returned to East London, they examined the passing of time and the idea of growing up. The casting featured models that walked the brand’s early London shows, now in their 30s or older. Some walked alongside their children, sporting the brand’s successful kids line.
The result was a mix-up of printed jersey and the usual ’90s denim with more brocade, tiered, ruffled skirts and satin peplums, and sheer gowns and skirting with a sparse floral metallic print. “It was really funny because the starting point for us was always the ’90s. We got stuck in the youth idea, but this time we had a look at the clothes on people of different ages and they made so much more sense,” Marques explained backstage. “Of all the harmful stereotypes we’ve fought hard against in our , age is something we’ve overlooked, but it’s a natural progression. We just want to keep learning about these things and being more inclusive.
It was translated into the clothes. The designers reexamined who the Marques’Almeida woman is, playing with new silhouettes and textures. “We went places that were taboo for Marques’Almeida, using words like ‘elegant’, and including big satin shapes and embroidery,” Marques said. That said, elegance is still a scary word. Almeida added, “It’s elegant—in a cool way.”
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Source: VogueRunway - 🏆 705. / 51 Read more »