Mark Peel helped codify the notion of American 'urban rustic' cooking

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If you whittle down the list of restaurants that shaped modern Los Angeles dining culture — the places where the now-stereotypes of California cooking were once fresh revelations, from which influences continue to ripple even if younger generations have no knowledge of their origins — Campanile…

If you whittle down the list of restaurants that shaped modern Los Angeles dining culture — the places where the now-stereotypes of California cooking were once fresh revelations, from which influences continue to ripple even if younger generations have no knowledge of their origins — Campanile would hover in the top five, maybe even the top three.

I had my first meal in Los Angeles at Campanile. It was spring 1997. I was 24 and worked at a restaurant in Seattle, making desserts and cooking brunch on weekends. My best friend, Kazzie, was trying to make it as an actor in L.A. I flew down to see her, and our dinner plans — straight from the airport— were a long-awaited, foregone conclusion. Kazzie had been to the restaurant’s famous adjunct La Brea Bakery but never to Campanile — an experience we’d both been saving up for.

After Silverton and Peel divorced, Silverton left to start the third act of her blockbuster career with Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza. Peel continued running Campanile until it closed in 2012 and was rechristened as République by Walter and Margarita Manzke.

 

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