Learning to bake with Huckleberry's Zoe Nathan

You can’t throw a baguette in L.A. without hitting a naturally leavened loaf these days, but 10 years ago when Zoe Nathan and her husband, Josh Loeb, opened Huckleberry, a cheery white-walled bakery on Wilshire Boulevard, news that Nathan, a Tartine Bakery alum, was launching a bread and pastry program in Santa Monica drew immediate crowds.

I cycled through the stations, mixing muffins and frying doughnuts before building layer cakes and troubleshooting buttercream. I learned how to laminate croissant dough and shape baguettes. I screwed up everything at least once, but Nathan had the grace not to fire me. At Huckleberry, we weighed and labeled the next day’s ingredients at the end of each shift so that when we arrived the next morning at 4 a.m. we could just dump and stir until the caffeine kicked in. The fancy term for this type of organization is, which translates to everything in its place. At home, measuring out your ingredients before you pick up a knife or a whisk means you won’t forget a crucial ingredient like salt, which brings me to lesson No. 2.“Salt is a flavor enhancer,” Nathan says.

You could turn to science to spell out why caramelization and the Maillard reaction make food taste better, but I prefer Nathan’s explanation. “I think of color as another ingredient,” she says. “When you toast something, you make it taste like more of what it is. Forgetting your color is like forgetting the salt.”Cook with all your senses

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