Jonathan Cohen, Fall 2021 New York, Style, Fall 2021, Network

Jonathan Cohen, Fall 2021 New York

Jonathan Cohen Is Making the Kind of Pieces You Want to Hold On to Forever

After skipping spring, the designer is back — and honing in on what makes fashion special.

5/10/2021 9:41:00 PM

After FLOTUS previewed the collection on the eve of the Inauguration, Jonathan Cohen 's return to ready-to-wear is here:

After skipping spring, the designer is back — and honing in on what makes fashion special.

Photo: Chip Somodevilla/Getty ImagesStill, the pause on ready-to-wear — Jonathan Cohen's bread and butter — allowed the designer and his business partner to "make changes that we've been wanting to make for a very long time" and ask themselves some deep, existential questions about why they do what they do. 

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"We all know the problems the industry across the board, from small brands to big brands, was having even before the pandemic," Cohen says. "We felt to not take this moment and to not meet it would be a waste of time."One big shift that happened behind the scenes was that Jonathan Cohen has shifted its production to Italy, where it was already printing and weaving its fabrics. "For the past years, we've really been evaluating our entire process, cycle and relationships," says Leff. "Everything had been made in New York, but there were a lot of hiccups." They were already talking about making that move in 2019, and the pandemic just solidified the decision and "put things in motion." The result is two-fold: The brand is able to offer a new level of craftsmanship, and the company is able to reduce part of its overall carbon footprint, since it previously had to ship its textiles from there to the U.S. then back to Europe for sales in that region.

"This last year has been phenomenal, to be able to communicate with the clients," Leff says. "Every time we release something, we get the constant feedback from them, on social or email... We're really excited to finally be able to have the customer come to our platform, shop and hear direct feedback of what they want, what they feel is missing, what they're coming to us for."

A velvet floral gown from Jonathan Cohen's Fall 2020 collection, which never went into production, comes back for the brand's 2021 ready-to-wear return.Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan CohenThrough spending time at home, focusing on Our Flower Shop and thinking hard about What It All Means, Cohen says he's become "more confident in our vision and more doubled down on what we're doing from a design perspective and social perspective." That, the

ongoing Covid-19 vaccine rollout in the U.S.and a growing desire from people to get dressed up again made him and Leff feel confident that Fall 2021 was the right time to come back. Of course, the world is very different from how it was when Jonathan Cohen last unveiled a collection — as is the way people want to dress. The challenge in designing for a post-pandemic wardrobe lied in figuring out how the brand's aesthetic fits into the now. "We're basically having to teach people how to dress up again," Cohen says. "So let's get rid of all the fussiness — just make it a dress, make it a button up, clean up the shapes a bit."

So, in Fall 2021, you'll find uncomplicated, well-crafted silhouettes made from artful fabrics that you'll want to keep and wear for a long, long time. Cohen pulled a lot of inspiration from the time he spent in his childhood home in San Diego, so you'll find autobiographical sprinkled throughout the line: Some of the bouquets feature blooms he'd find in the garden; the rainbow stripes on a dress allude to the Pink Floyd cover art in his bedroom; a few florals and a Dalmatian spot print were inspired by the 1998 film "What Dreams May Come," which he watched during quarantine. 

A Pink Floyd-inspired stripe in Jonathan Cohen's Fall 2021 collection.Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan Cohen.Other highlights include a denim suit decorated with hand-painted florals, made from deadstock fabrics (the fellow New York brand's president was Cohen and Leff's mentor through the CFDA/

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VogueFashion Fund), flowing printed dresses with attached scarves that can be styled in a variety of ways and new riffs on Dr. Biden's now-famous coat."We love making beautiful products that stay in your closet," Cohen says. "As wacky as our prints can be, they're timeless because it's always going to be that printed dress." 

Moving forward, Jonathan Cohen hopes to unveil new collections closer to when customers will be able to shop it online and at its retail partners. Products will now be released in small drops, leading up to the season they correspond to. For autumn, there will be a drop this month, a drop in July and a drop in September, with additional special pieces, dubbed "top-offs," here and there. "The ultimate goal of this new system is to really be able to control what we're doing," Cohen says. 

This yellow shirtdress was made using deadstock fabric from Carolina Herrera.Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan CohenThere's also a new sub-line, called JC Basics, consisting of three printed pieces — a pair of leggings, a long-sleeved shirt and a draped dress, available in sizes XS through XXL, made using machine-washable 

Repreve fabric and all priced under $500 — that will accompany each delivery. (The first drop features a Dancing Tulip print.) Read more: »

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Jonathan Cohen Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection Jonathan Cohen Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.

Jonathan Cohen Fall 2021 Represents a New Fashion Outlook - PAPERFor designer Jonathan Cohen , his Fall 2021 collection marks the beginning of a new outlook on fashion, from his business model to production and his personal creative perspective. For the first time, his collections will be divided into three deliveries and will be available immediately when the images are reveals online.

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