Jonathan Cohen Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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See every look from Jonathan Cohen's fall 2021 collection.

Some designers say the pandemic hasn’t really affected how they work or what they choose to make.

Sarah Leff, the label’s cofounder and CEO, put it bluntly: “We’re doing what’s best for our business.” It’s sage advice for any independent or upstart brand. The ones that made it through 2020 knew the pitfalls of relying on a broken system and the merits of writing your own rules. All of those changes came with a pivot in Cohen’s aesthetic. While texture and craft were often the highlights of his past collections—the fraying knits, the ribbon-trimmed dresses, the patchworked coats—he leaned into prints this season, noting they’re easier to understand on Zoom. The same is true of his simpler, leaner silhouettes, like a crisp shirtdress and a body-conscious T-shirt dress in glossy recycled polyester.

Cohen sourced a few of his fabrics from Carolina Herrera’s stockroom, including a cornflower striped cotton and a dark-rinse denim, which he cut into a suit and painted with giant magnolias. “Responsible” was how he described the textile assortment; in addition to those leftover materials, he cut strips of past-season florals and plaids into a smocked off-the-shoulder midi-dress, and continues to upcycle leftover fabric in his face masks.

That smocked dress might speak to fans of Cohen’s more artful, tactile work, ditto the long-sleeve minis with smocked collars and cuffs. If those women are missing his raw-edged tie dresses and floral embroideries, it’s fair to assume those details will return in the coming seasons. But Cohen also seems to understand that many women are craving a more pared-back look for their “post-pandemic” lives—clothes with less fuss, less volume, less styling.

 

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