Iris Van Herpen Sharpened Her Scissors — and CGI Skills — for Couture Week

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After the very trying year 2020, Iris Van Herpen's mind went to rebirth and transformation for her spring 2021 couture collection, which features Dutch-Iranian singer Sevdaliza and Houdini animations.

When WWD photographer Kuba Dabrowski visited Iris Van Herpen’s Amsterdam atelier earlier this month, he encountered Dutch-Iranian musician Sevdaliza in the midst of a fitting — and a wall of scissors and pliers so vast it would put any hardware emporium to shame.

Sevdaliza’s dress is inspired partly by the ghost mantis, a small insect with a leaf-like body that offers miraculous camouflage. Fungi are another key reference this season. The skirt of Sevdaliza’s dress mimics the gills and rings of mushrooms. She drew links between the mantis’ ability to mimic its environment to Sevdaliza, whose strong features, athletic physique and edgy videos “break boundaries of what to expect from femininity.” In her clip for “Human,” for example, Sevdaliza does a striptease in front of a crowd to reveal legs resembling a horse.Sevdaliza and Russian model and philanthropist Natalia Vodianova were among the famous faces featured in a film melding live runway modeling overlaid with Houdini computer animations.

WWD’s Kuba Dabrowski visits Iris Van Herpen’s Amsterdam atelier during the fitting for Dutch-Iranian musician Sevdaliza. Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

 

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