Inside Dallas’ tiny, 10-seat restaurant, Tatsu

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The long-awaited Japanese restaurant is full of surprises.

Which means: There can be only one dining room serving food.From Ciccone’s persistence, chef Sekiguchi and his wife Hiroko Sekiguchi left New York City mid-pandemic and moved to Dallas. Sekiguchi is a fourth-generation sushi chef who most recently worked at one-Michelin-starred restaurant Sushi Yasuda. Ciccone loved that restaurant.

Ciccone balks at the “have it your way” model of fast-food restaurants today — places that operate unsustainably and are driven by low prices instead of quality products. Rather than “have it your way,” Ciccone says, “let’s go back to the old way.” Ciccone is a plant-based eater who almost never indulges in the raw fish that Sekiguchi prepares. Ciccone is fixated on sustainable eating and suitable portion sizes and says Tatsu can deliver on both. So, two times a year, he’ll allow himself to savor Sekiguchi’s food for a special occasion.That’s right: The owner of this Japanese restaurant will eat here just one time this year, when it opens.

It’s the second restaurant in Dallas serving omakase inside a tiny dining room. Unaffiliated restaurantAt a special tasting in July 2021, sushi chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi served some of the food he would make when his restaurant Tatsu opened the following year. That restaurant, in Deep Ellum, is now ready for a quiet, confident debut.

 

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