India Insight: Riding a dystopian Covid-19 wave

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A day’s hike away from phone connectivity, news filtered up the snowclad Himalayas from one tea-shack to the next of India’s explosive second wave of Covid-19. It was a harsh jolt back to reality after a week of blissful trekking. Like far too many in India, for the past six months I felt comfortable flying around the country. Everything has turned on its head. The only safe space now, it seems, is my Mumbai home.

I returned to the city to find the coronavirus rampant in high-rise buildings whose richer residents were mostly spared in the first wave. Friends and acquaintances tested positive or were sealed shut in their buildings by authorities; others that fled were infected elsewhere. Colleagues are convalescing, and when not working, begging to secure intensive care beds for relatives. This is what happens when almost 30% of RT-PCR tests in a city return positive. The pandemic haunts my sleep.

Why has Mumbai done better up to now? Maybe because it locked down earlier, has better oxygen supplies and a sensible triaging system. It’s also a seemingly safer two-hour flight away from Haridwar, where during April millions of pilgrims gathered to bathe in the River Ganges for the Kumbh Mela, a Hindu festival turned likely super-spreader event. It took place a four-hour drive away from New Delhi.

Amongst the despair, commercial life continues. Construction workers are refurbishing three flats in my block in Bollywood-favoured Bandra. It’s a small example of why the new round of lockdowns might not result in a precipitous quarterly decline in economic activity, though India’s richest banker, Uday Kotak, is leading a call for stronger national restrictions.

 

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