In a Crowded Taco Field, Paloma is Doing It Differently and Better

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Review: In a crowded taco field, Paloma is doing it differently and better

One comment that repeatedly comes up when talking to Cleveland diners is, “You know what we could really use? Another taco restaurant.”

A quick glance at the menu shows taco fillings that are composed with the same level of attention a chef would devote to an entrée. Proteins like lamb, duck, oxtail, beef short rib and fresh-catch seafood take the place of the ubiquitous ground beef, pulled pork and white-meat chicken. Instead of bland shredded cheese, wilted greens and watery salsas, the tacos here are topped with dewy micro-herbs, crispy veggies, vibrant sauces and salty cotija cheese.

The quickest way to ruin any of the above fillings is by spooning them into a dry, brittle corn shell – or worse, a cold, thick flour tortilla from a plastic bag. At Paloma, those thoughtful fillings are popped into freshly pressed and griddled flour tortillas that are prepared in full view of the dining room. The warm, tender, slightly puffy shells support the fillings but give way with little chew.

 

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