High up in the Andes mountains, Colombia’s capital city is cool year-round. Residents walk the streets in jackets or raincoats, perpetually seeking shelter from the crisp, often drizzly nights. As Bogotá’s foodscape has blossomed over the last decade, so have its options for nighttime refuge — an overwhelming number of hotspots now blanket the city.
On any given night you’ll find the converted townhouse swarmed with young Bogotanos at smashed-together tables, smiling through the deafening chatter. From the outside, the restaurant is a relic of what the buzzy Chapinero Alto area of Bogotá used to look like, with large brick and stone houses modeled on a variety of English architectural styles. Inside, the design is modern, with echoes of the family home it once was, like the original living room’s wood-burning fireplace.
Despite the country’s rich history and natural resources, many Colombians have long seen their own cuisine as the delicious but humble stuff of home cooking; fine restaurants, the logic went, were for French, Italian, and Japanese food. Ortiz is part of a relatively recent movement of chefs and restaurateurs working to change that by looking inward, researching Colombia’s indigenous ingredients and ancient recipes, to celebrate and preserve its culinary culture.
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