In Yunnan province, mooncakes are traditionally filled with the region’s famed dried ham, while mooncakes in Hunan province feature roses and osmanthus. Today, contemporary versions of mooncakes with custard, ice cream, or fruit fillings are common around China. Each year, I look forward to snow-skin mooncakes, which are similar to mochi with their chewy exterior made from a sweet rice flour dough.
When I was growing up in Hong Kong, my family ate Cantonese mooncakes, which are traditionally made with a lard-based pastry dough and filled with a luxurious lotus seed paste reminiscent of a honey caramel. Nestled in the center is a bright, round salted egg yolk that is as radiant as the moon. The cakes are set in an elaborate mold , with characters that represent health and prosperity.
We’d enjoy a simple but perfectly cooked meal by my grandma: comforting and deeply flavored double-boiled chicken soup, steamed pork cake with salted fish, and a whole poached chicken served with ginger and scallion sauce. After dinner, she’d serve an assortment of fruit and mooncakes. Although some people dislike the richness and saltiness of the yolks, my cousins would battle each other for the piece with the largest yolk.
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