I have a letter from my great-uncle Shush in which he lists some of the more exotic foods from his Jewish childhood home, each accompanied by commentary. It includes Yiddish terms* likeShush and his siblings grew up in a house in which they heard Yiddish daily, and they had some level of comprehension, but didn't know how to speak or write it themselves; some of these terms may be unusually transliterated as a result.
The result is an addictive, complex dish—there’s the rich, funky liver, of course, but it’s layered with the sweetness of sautéed onions and the buttery poultry flavor of the schmaltz. The egg, meanwhile, adds tenderness while diluting the intensity of the liver. It's not exactly silky or smooth, but it is soft and spreadable, perfect for schmearing on matzo, crackers, or crusty bread.
I decided to test grilling versus broiling, and out of curiosity, I tested a seared version as well, since I don't personally keep kosher and wanted to see how it stacked up. No matter which method you choose, make sure that when you're cooking the livers, you take them beyond the pink centers one often aims for when making a French liver pâté. For chopped liver, you want them a bit more well-done: When chopped, the paste should be brown and slightly crumbly, not pink and soft. The secret to a good, spreadable texture comes from additional fat, not from less-cooked livers.
After tasting both the browned and the not-browned batches, I decided to have it both ways by sautéing the minced onion until it's soft, removing about half, then continuing to cook the rest until it's browned. That provides a low-level sweetness and roasty depth, without crossing too far into the sugar zone.From left: duck fat, vegetable oil, and schmaltz.
I made batches of chopped liver using schmaltz, vegetable oil, and also duck fat, to see how they compared. The duck fat was a potential shortcut I wanted to try out, my hope being that a more commonly available rendered poultry fat might make a good stand-in.
Try actually chopping the liver/onion/egg mixture in a wooden bowl-- who does this anymore? (Me)-- it's a completely different taste, like when you make scrambled eggs using a wooden spoon, not metal. Also, try Hellmans mayonnaise as the fat instead of schmaltz. It's so good!
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