How three generations of women revived their restaurant while uplifting AAPI chefs

. Here, the women shred green papaya for a funky and bright beef jerky salad, and serve up vegetarian “duck” noodle soup that replicates the bird with swaths of braised bean curd skins. They slice carrots and cucumber for rotating bao specials, some filled with pork, others with soft-shell crab.

Sesame Dinette’s kitchen team is led by matriarch Judy Mai Nguyen, but also includes Nguyen’s friends from local Buddhist temples. Above, vegan-shrimp summer rolls with tamarind dipping sauce. She painted the mustard yellow walls a pristine, crisp white and modernized the decor. At one end of the dining room now sits a smattering of shelves, where jars of locally made black sesame spread and bottles of chile crisp and seasoned salts and other items made by members of the AAPI community serve as a sampling of the goods available at Sesame LA.Morning Nights takes the meat out of dim sum.

Kala, the first pop-up in the program, has given Dev — formerly of Destroyer and Vespertine — a place to sell whimsical, original and sustainability-minded pastries and deli-leaning savory dishes in the space. Instead of cheddar biscuits, she bakes fluffy versions with green garlic and paneer; classic French financiers get a cashew, almond and cardamom infusion to resemble barfi, an Indian sweet she loves.

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