Hood By Air Rises Again

Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images In 2017, a decade after co-founding the groundbreaking fashion brand Hood By Air with Raul López, designer Shayne Oliver announced it would go on an indefinite “hiatus.” For Oliver, hiatus is a term of art — he’d used the word earlier in his career to describe a pause in production, or an incubation of sorts. Three years later, the latest hiatus is over. And just in time for an industrywide reset.

Hood By Air’s goal was never to fit into a preexisting box, or to find a way to work within a system that didn’t support it, but rather to succeed on its own terms — to create its own club and host its own, much better, party. After a brief stint as the designer-in-residence for Helmut Lang in 2017 and a gig for Diesel in a similar capacity, Oliver is ready to focus on building his own house again. He’s calling it “the new institution.

Hood By Air’s latest iteration will exist in four parts: Hood By Air, the luxury brand; HBA, the direct-to-consumer platform; and two new concepts, called Museum and Anonymous Club. Museum will be home to the brand’s archives, which will be updated and reintroduced through new collections, sometimes by a designer-in-residence. “By leveraging past icons and silhouettes born from young BIPOC creatives, a new future will be informed and developed,” the brand explains.

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