A server in a fitted jacket stands at our table at Angler, a 3-month-old luxury seafood restaurant in the Beverly Center, leaning over a small wooden cart. His object of focus is a palm-sized banana pancake — flavored with ripe banana but also other banana iterations, including a powder made by drying the fruit above the blazes in the kitchen’s massive hearth. He smears butter infused with barbecued banana peels over the flapjack.
Last year, Skenes opened the first Angler along San Francisco’s panoramic Embarcadero, billing it as a more casual, à la carte spinoff of Saison that is resolute in its emphasis on environmentally sound sources of seafood. It’s more laid-back by Skenes-ian standards, certainly, but lunch entrees still run $21 to $48. In April Skenes ceded operations of Saison to Laurent Gras, who had already taken over as chef, to focus on Angler and other projects.
Diners willing to spend the money likely will walk away impressed by the dishes they choose. I’m less confident about the universal enjoyment of the setting. It’s a mood: fishing lodge by way of David Lynch. Taxidermy, thick firewood paneling, stacks of wood, aquariums with sea creatures awaiting their fate . Low lighting casts tapering shadows throughout the cloistered space: The air somehow feels charged with portent.
Wine director Peter Carrillo provides exceptional guidance.
latimes BillAddison Nataasha611
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