Some of these groceries’ significance is rooted in the histories of colonization and American military presence, Shih says. “When people talk about cultural authenticity, especially in the States for children of immigrants, they’re often trying to put a fence around what is authentic and what is not. Some Chinese Americans say, this is what Chinese food is—fast food, Chinese American takeout, that’s not Chinese food,” the artist explains.
“Obviously, my experience is only my personal experience,” she says. “I didn’t know, for instance, that Hennessy and Heineken are the two drinks that you always have at Vietnamese gatherings.”
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