are still thrilled to be thinking about the structural elements of the fashion business. “I think we helped a lot of people to understand what was wrong—and I think there is clearly an evolution visible,” Van Noten says on Zoom. “It was always a little bit ridiculous that everybody was looking at each other as competitors. It is interesting to see that this mentality has changed in such a positive way.
The Rewiring Fashion talks now take place quarterly, uniting a global fashion scene of mostly mostly independent stores and brands, from Kirna Zabête and Ikram to Alyx and Adam Lippes. “That community of 80-plus designers is the truest collaboration of the fashion industry,” says Wen Zhou, the CEO and cofounder of, who was part of Rewiring Fashion’s founding committee. “The people that are on those calls are genuinely interested to learn about your challenges and provide support.
Cohen’s pivot involved shifting to two collections a year, each comprising three capsule drops. Each capsule arrives in stores closer to the season it’s meant for, with flirty dresses hitting in June and knits in September, which allows for a flow of new product without having to put the original pieces on sale. In addition, he has grown his own e-commerce business to better facilitate mid-season drops direct to his customers.
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