Food-writing pioneer explores African American cuisine, in all its splendor, in new cookbook

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'Where are the black food writers?' asks Toni Tipton-Martin.

A native Angeleno, author and community activist, Tipton-Martin has frequently wrestled with that question during her 31-year food-writing career. In the 1980s, the Los Angeles Times hired her as a food reporter. A few years later, she made history with the Cleveland Plain Dealer when she became the first African American woman to edit the food section of a major newspaper.

“I’m proving a point,” Tipton-Martin said of the book. “The African American culinary canon is larger than we know.” Rather than circumscribing a set of dishes or recipes that define African American cuisine, in “Jubilee” Tipton-Martin declares that African Americans are now free to cook whatever they want — because that’s what their predecessors have been doing for the last 200 years.

Beyond her scholarship and recipe-writing, Tipton-Martin also taps into a long tradition of African American entrepreneurs who have one eye on success and the other on helping others in their community.

 

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