Mugler, who began his career as a dancer, was one of the first designers to fling open the doors of a fashion show to members of the public, with a mega-event at the Zenith concert venue in 1984. He pushed the boundaries of clothing construction by working with materials like latex, metal and feathers.
“There’s no question that the way Thierry Mugler presented his collections, and the way he composed his silhouettes, was to give power to women,” Grumbach said in an interview on Monday. “I think his silhouette will survive, and this is part of his contribution to fashion.…It’s only now that he starts being eternal.”
The news took Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry back to 1999 when, as a fashion student at the Duperré school, he sneaked into the Carrousel du Louvre to see a Mugler show — his first taste of a true runway spectacle. “He was a photographer, a director, a couturier, a dancer, so he had many lives. His life was a novel, and it’s really sad, but at the same time it’s a strong message to fashion: wake up guys, look at what came before you, how beautiful it was,” she added. “He had a great life and he did everything he wanted without listening to what others thought. He was a free man, that’s what I loved about him.
Later came Paris, which he cited as having influenced his streamlined, body-conscious aesthetic, describing Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior as his “masters in fashion.” The designer is the subject of an ongoing retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which opened in September with a party attended by Cardi B.
“He was ahead of his time in many ways, from the phenomenon of celebrity-as-model to his relationship with the music world, and the cultural impact of fashion in contemporary society,” Olivier Gabet, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, noted in a September conversation with WWD. “He broke the taboos and the codes of the fashion industry, revolutionized haute couture with groundbreaking inventions, and wrote fashion history — without knowing it — season after season, by following his instinct and empowering men and women with his metamorphosis. He left us like a shooting star, in all his glory, celebrated with a major retrospective which represents his unique legacy,” he added.
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