With the coronavirus pandemic putting the brakes on manufacturing and retail activities on hold, European independent designers continue to work from home on their next collections.
Thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I think it’s going back to what fashion used to be about: creativity, honesty and innovation. Design-wise, I think things were moving in that direction already precrisis: a little bit more authentic and a bit more real. Logo-mania was going away. It’s refreshing to be obliged to think differently about the system and how you are going to work going forward.Giuliano Calza, creative director of GCDS.
Your best advice for staying positive? @Mustafathepoet is one of my closest friends, a musician, composer and creative individual. After a few weeks in quarantine, his points of view are those I found myself considering the most. How are you approaching future seasons differently? What kind of production and delivery cadence makes sense to you and why? We are considering to set up digital showrooms, trunks shows, online line sheets and video calls. It might be smart to return to a more traditional schedule creating less collections, but I think it will be crucial to preserve special moments during the year to physically meet, talk and discuss.
What’s the status of your spring and fall collections, extent of cancellations and forecast for the seasons? Spring 2020 is almost 100 percent delivered and fall 2020 will go into production as soon as our factories reopen. We’ve had the chance to make a strong first Coperni show during last Paris Fashion Week that was very well received by press and buyers. We have had a more than satisfactory market against the odds.
What are your thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I guess this period will be enriching for the fashion industry. At least I hope. There are the terrible human and financial aspects, of course, but we believe that fashion is about cycles, trends, society, and that it will be a brand new chapter for all of us.
What kind of help do you need the most right now, from whom, and why? What about three months from now? We need the fashion community to work more together for this to work. We need to have a platform to exchange ideas, and have more influence on how governing bodies, like the French fashion federation, can help us. Right now, the German government is already helping a bit through the emergency aid measures with immediate running costs, but much more is needed.
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