Detroit's Chinatown and Gayborhood Felt Like Two Separate Worlds. Then They Collided

Most of them worked in food service as waiters and cooks—grueling jobs but the best they could get with their limited English skills. After long days they would arrive at my family’s restaurant, Chung’s Cantonese Cuisine, and practically sprint down a rickety back flight of stairs to the gambling den below. From the top of the landing, I could hear them swearing in Cantonese while casting their well-worn dominoes and chipped mah-jongg tiles.

As a curious 12-year-old, I often snuck off to Birdtown, the colorful pet store. Through rows of blue-tinted lights illuminating 10-gallon tanks filled with black-and-white angelfish and orange swordtails, I’d eavesdrop on the pet shop boys as they chatted around the register, flipping through their Hollywood gossip magazines.

Though we were past our posted closing time of 11 p.m., the dinner was still going strong. Dad, the consummate host and waiter, dressed in his red uniform, would never kick diners out, no matter how long they took to finish that last bite. Even at age 12 my gaydar was fully operational; it was pinging like a busted car alarm. Before I could even make the case to turn the men away so we could wrap up for the night without any awkward clashes, my dad opened the door and issued his signature hearty greeting: “Welcome to Chung’s!”

Peering over from the back table, by the coatrack and high chairs, I felt super nervous. Even as an American-born Chinese kid,With cautious forks and spoons in hand, they looked around their party, wondering who would make the first move. The guy with the tank top and biceps who seemed to be the leader nodded before conducting a quick smell-and-taste test.

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