In 1921, when the world had just barely recovered from a pandemic, Fred Cook and his wife, Lovey, opened a restaurant inside a replica dining car on the outskirts of downtown Los Angeles.
But however high that figure is, it won’t save the restaurant. Nor will it save us from the rapidly growing list of closures of our beloved dining institutions. And while this isn’t the first business to close due to COVID-19 and will not be the last, this one feels a bit different. It cuts a little deeper.
You could waltz in wearing ripped jeans and a ball cap and sit next to a couple dressed for the Vanity Fair Oscar party and no one would look at you sideways. In that sense, it was the most egalitarian of restaurants. The steaks were pretty good to very good. The sides were satisfactory. The wedge was swimming in blue cheese and candied bacon, as a good wedge should be. I’d sometimes get crab cakes or an omelette or something, just to be that guy at the steakhouse, and I wouldn’t be disappointed.
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