is “Concept Foreign Garments New York,” but also “Cute Fucking Gay New York” and, once, for a Berlin exhibition, “Certain Forgotten Gestures Near Yourself.” The acronym functions, like the concept of “vaguely Asian” that is central to the collective’s work, as a kind of playfully ambiguous signifier: context-dependent, constantly in flux, open to the joys of mistranslation.
CHEW: But also, I think you can describe it as a sensibility that you can recognize but not actually name. We all come from very different cultural backgrounds, but growing up there’s certain things that we can all relate to.CHEW: And recognize in each other. But then, you’re like, “Well, I can’t actually understand where that comes from.
. I don’t think that we’re necessarily interested in stereotypes at all, but it’s this act of knowing how you’re perceived, and then producing something generative with it. CHEW: I think we always think about clothing that way. The ways in which one is racialized or one reads a person, that visual legibility also works within fashion, so we always see these two as one.
KAN-SPERLING: Were there any mistranslations of form that ended up manifesting in the garment in this collection?NGUYEN: Well, for instance, Palmtrees is wearing this jacket here, and the neck islarge. It’s an XL, but the tailors don’t have a sense of what Americans look like. So then I asked Avena [Gallagher, who styled the collection], I was like, “Should we ship it back and get a new one made?” But she was like, “No, it would cost so much to do that. Let’s work with them.
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