Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

“Last time I wore a tie was one year ago, on February 24 during Milan Fashion Week, at the press presentation in our headquarters,” Brunello Cucinelli said on a phone call from Solomeo. A year has passed—and what a year it’s been. “Yesterday, for the first time, I put on a tie again to make the video presentation that will go live with our fall collection,” he continued. “There’s a new energy around, definitely. We’re not out of it yet, but the sentiment is positive.

Cucinelli is a force of nature, no doubt. And nature and respect for the environment are always the starting point, both ethical and aesthetic, behind the work of his young design team. The fall offering, presented via a virtual walkthrough, was so rich in natural noble fibers—double cashmeres, soft alpacas, and mohairs as inconspicuous as a whisper—that it induced in this reviewer a profound sense of frustration for being deprived of the pleasure of touching and feeling it all firsthand.

Knitwear was the collection’s main focus. Great oversized sweats were hand-crocheted in a plethora of iterations, and short and long piuminos were offered in a flat-knit, featherweight cashmere. Roomy city coats in soft, neutral shades of double-faced cashmere looked spontaneous and informal, yet retained the appropriate well-put-together quality so dear to Cucinelli.

The designer and entrepreneur reports that he’s hearing positive feedback on the recovery of spending habits in China, Korea, Russia, and Japan. America, he added, “is showing promising signs of a new energy.” The collection embraces this sense of renewal. “It’s not a blind sense of hope; it’s constructive hope,” Cucinelli said. “People want to look well, not pretentious or—God forbid!—showy. Just at ease with themselves and good-looking, elegant.

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