Olivier Theyskens has built an enviable reputation on romance. Edwardian-inflected hook-and-eye closures, frissons of lace, graceful gowns, and the perfect line have been leitmotifs of his work since the late ’90s, when he started his eponymous label in Paris. What have perhaps not been so closely associated with his sophisticated vision of femininity are sequins.
“I love the possibility to play with things I was more shy with in the past: paillettes, crystals, sequins,” he said, in a preview at the house’s head office in the eighth arrondissement. “That’s a typical Azzaro thing, and I am discovering how beautiful it can be.” Part of that is down to having established a good working relationship with the atelier team. “When you understand the culture, what [the atelier] knows how to do, you can be confident when you do a design, it will be done properly.
Fluidity was the watchword for the season, and it permeated the metallic-flecked knitted tunic-and-trouser combinations and louche, sheeny suits in moody shades of gray, caramel, and Russian blue. Most memorable were the floor-length evening dresses, cut to expose the back, their skirts left long and dramatic, some with deep Vs at the neck and barely-there straps trimmed with crystals.
Despite these COVID-stricken months of scaled back red-carpet events, he’s found particular success with menswear, which is appealing to an increasingly flamboyant client. Highlights included a spangled take on a pinstriped suit, the stripes picked out in silver sequins; and a black paillette-strewn two-piece suit paired with a liquid vinyl roll-neck.
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