said. “Sometimes fashion I could call a monarchy, where you have the queen and the king and after that, the crowd. But the reality is that fashion now opens the door to what we call inclusivity, and there, at that point, it starts to be an entire revolution of questions of doubting the power of people, and why do they have these powers and what that power’s going to mean in the future.”
Rousteing, leading design at one of the foremost fashion houses in France, said he still had to fight for his right to express his more diverse vision — including diverse casting for shows and campaigns. Things have changed to create a world where Glemaud can populate an all-Black cast for a runway show where, 10 years ago, Rousteing said agencies didn’t even have the models to suggest when he sought them. But there’s a reason progress has been so slow and credit for Black creatives’ contributions so sparing: erasure has had its part to play.
The reality and the aging-yet-heavily-relied-upon story line of there not being enough Black designers to hire/work with/highlight/buy from is a narrative Daniel and Harlem’s Fashion Row are actively working against. “Four years of doing the work and focusing on Black creatives and designers is not enough when we’ve had decades of this group being totally left out,” she continued. “One of the things that Virgil did was he opened the door, so one of the things that I’m asking the fashion community to do is open the door.”
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